From all the countries I traveled to in SE Asia, Laos was the one I knew least about and didn’t expect going to for writing inspiration.
So much so, that I was stuck without money for the first few days because I didn’t tell my bank I was planning on going there. That’s how far off my list of places to go it was.
And guess what? It was probably my favorite country.
Since it’s under the radar for many other tourists, Laos is a place where you won’t find many crowds. This means you can find peace and authenticity you won’t find in countries already accustomed to mass tourism.
That will change in the coming years, no doubt, as word gets out about this gem of a country. Make sure you plan a writing retreat, or simply a trip, to Laos before that happens.
For guidance and inspiration, these are the best places I found for writing in Laos: Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, Thakhek and Don Det.
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I arrived to Luang Prabang, my first stop in Laos, by a 2-day slow boat trip from Thailand. What I found there surprised me.
Never before hearing of this town, and little about this country, I expected to only find the adventurous backpacker crowd found in many of the other places I traveled to in SE Asia (including some places in this guide).
Imagine my surprise when the tuk tuk driver dropped us off in a beautiful, luxurious little town center- nestled along the Mekong River. And it’s all pretty much in the middle of nowhere.
Westerners with nice, fancy clothes (a stark contrast to the raggedy backpacking attire I was used to seeing) walked the neat little streets lined with luxury boutique hotels. Turns out, Luang Prabang, a town I had never before heard of, was a fairly popular destination among Europeans touring the Mekong River.
At the same time, it was still Laos, so you could really enjoy the area even if you’re on a tight budget.
So, this town is perfect for every type of traveler, from the backpacker to the luxury traveler.
Here are the best places to write and take writing breaks (and let’s face it, it will be hard to write with so much beauty to see!) in Luang Prabang, Laos.
This is probably my favorite place in town, and its vibe differs throughout the day. It was certainly the best café/bar/venue I found for writing in Laos.
At night it’s a hip yet cozy bar (but closes before midnight- see why under bowling alley section). There’s lots of cozy outdoor seating nicely lit up. So if you don’t mind loud chatter and music, you can probably find an empty spot to write.
If you prefer peaceful writing environments, Utopia transforms into a completely different place during the day. After an early morning open air yoga class with beautiful view of the river below you, there’s no reason to leave Utopia for the rest of the day.
The cozy seating is ideal spending all day seated and writing, and you can order lots of coffee or tea and food to keep you fueled the whole day.
The space is located by a river and with plenty of greenery all around creating zen-like, cozy spots to hide away and write. There are rusty remnants of UXO’s (unexploded ordnances) throughout- which is something you’ll find all over the country- but with paper butterflies attached to them.
Choose between a chair or a cushion, under the cozy roofed area or out under the sun. Wherever you choose, you’ll find a peaceful environment with beautiful nature around you, not at all reminded you’re in a large town.
This place truly feels like a utopia. If you come to Luang Prabang, Laos, you have to give writing here a try.
There are several restaurants with seating on wooden platforms set above the backs of the Mekong River. The view from here is beautiful, so long as you excuse the Mekong for its murky brown waters.
Regardless, it’s a good place to see boats passing by, and it’s a peaceful spot to take out a laptop or notebook to write!
You probably won’t have Wi-Fi at most of those places, but if you’re easily distracted by notifications then that’s probably a good thing when you’re trying to write. You won’t find many distractions here.
The Kouang Si waterfalls alone are a reason to visit Luang Prabang, and Laos for that matter.
These are easily the most beautiful waterfalls I’ve ever seen, and that’s saying something.
They like they’re straight out of some fairytale land, largely due to the pretty, light blue color of the water.
You can hike up to the top of the tallest waterfall, which is quite worth the climb up for the beautiful secluded seating areas perfect for writing. If I ever return to Laos, up there is where I’d schedule a whole day for writing.
After the short hike and some writing at the top, head down to the lower waterfalls and swim in one of pools.
Word of warning: the water is a bit cold, but more concerning for me were the fish…they bite! Not anything painful, just little, uncomfortable nibbles akin to those fish spas where fish bite dead skin off your feet. Some people were delighted with this free spa.
I was not.
Fish biting me is pretty much my worst fear, but I still sucked it up. And if I could face my worst fear, so can you. If you keep moving, you should be okay. It’s when you stop moving that they come at you!
There are many gorgeous sunset spots in SE Asia, but this one is among the best I experienced. The hill is situated in the middle of the town, so it’s the perfect viewpoint of the whole town, with the Mekong River to one side and mountains in the distance.
Take break from writing and get a bird’s eye view of the town you’re in. This is one of my favorite things to do, because it brings the world around you into a new perspective.
It does get quite crowded, so make sure to arrive early for a good spot as it’s a tiny space (with a temple, so dress appropriately if you want to enter it). And as with most sunset spots, people leave as soon as the sun disappears.
This is a mistake I’m very happy the crowds make, because the most beautiful part of a sunset, in my opinion, comes after the sun disappears and the sky turns gorgeous colors. There won’t be as many people for this part, so take a journal with you for some writing while you watch nature’s show in Laos.
This is a very sobering experience and not a place to go to if you’re feeling down about your writing and need a light getaway.
The museum is free and very small, but it packs a lot of information in and tells stories I certainly never learned in my American schools.
The U.S. dropped two million tons of ordnances on Laos over nine years, and an estimated 80 million bombs failed to explode. Even now, decades later, there still remain unexploded ordnances, with around 300 people still dying every year.
This is one of the best museums I’ve been to in Asia (certainly the best free one), so make sure not to miss it. Who knows, maybe it will inspire a new writing project during your time in Laos.
If shopping is your preferred choice of writing break, I found the night market in Luang Prabang was the best place to buy souvenirs in Laos. Even if you don’t like shopping like me, night markets are great place to stroll around and find inspiration.
It’s the perfect place to people watch, meet locals and try new foods. Take a walk around, observe the people and take in the scenes before you with all your senses.
There’s a little alleyway that has most of the food, and you can get a big meal for very cheap. My favorite were the mini coconut pancakes…I’m craving one right now so badly!
This might not sound like much, but it’s definitely going to be the most interesting bowling alley you’ll go to. At least for me, bowling alleys conjure up memories of childhood and images of families, but the bowling alley in Luang Prabang serves a much more adult-friendly purpose.
Okay, I definitely made it sound like a much more scandalous place than it actually is. The reason why the bowling alley is so infamous is because it’s the only place open past midnight.
Laos, being a communist country, has a nationwide curfew, so nothing is open past midnight. Venues with “special permission” (i.e. bribes) stay open past that curfew, and the bowling alley in Luang Prabang is one of them. So if you want to experience nightlife or get a drink past midnight, this is the only place you’ll find it.
Mostly locals were at to the bowling alley when I was there, and we had a few come chat with us. One Lao guy told us there used to be a bar in town also open past curfew, but the family owning it was unable to pay the hefty bribe to the government, so it was shut down.
We learned lots of interesting things from the locals at the bowling alley, and Lao people are very friendly in my experiences. So make sure you don’t miss out on a chance to get to know some. The bowling alley is the perfect place for that!
It is located a bit out of town, but there will be plenty of tuk tuk drivers riding around town waiting to take people over there. As always, make sure to haggle a price before getting in!
I stayed at this hostel and it wasn’t anything fancy, but it was cheap and in a perfect location. It’s located just off the main street with the night market and down a cute little alley on a side street. There’s a common area out front, and it was a good place to write in the morning while enjoying free breakfast and tea.
Like I said, if you’re a luxury traveler, you’ll be spoilt for options. But this one looks particularly amazing for a writing retreat.
Located in the former residence of a prince, I’m sure you can conjure up some interesting stories set in this colonial-style residence.
The spacious rooms with plenty space to write, along with two outdoor pools and a spa, are the perfect place to lock yourself up with your writing while in Laos.
Once notorious as party central for backpackers, Vang Vieng’s image has changed in recent years. The main reason for this were the several deaths of tourists on the infamous tubing drawing partiers into town, forcing the government to shut down the bars on the river.
While a younger crowd still comes for the tubing (keep reading below), Vang Vieng is attempting to rebrand itself as a place to discover beautiful nature.
In comparison to Luang Prabang, the actual town of Vang Vieng is dirty, ugly and not aesthetically pleasing, but the area around it is truly spectacular.
So while the town isn’t great for writing, the nature surrounding it is among the best in Laos.
If you want a nice, laptop-friendly place to write, your best bet is to write in your accommodation (see below). The town itself doesn’t have many nice places to write.
The only nice café I found near my hostel was a Café Amazon. This place is actually worth noting for your writing travels in SE Asia, as it’s the main coffee shop chain in countries like Laos and Thailand. It’s kind of the equivalent of Starbucks (which doesn’t exist in Laos, by the way), but much cheaper.
While I don’t like recommending big chain places in my Writer’s Travel Guides, sometimes they really are the best option. So, for free Wi-Fi, tea and coffee writing fuel and a nice place to write, Café Amazon is your best bet.
So, more about the tubing. As I said, it’s not the wild party scene it used to be due to several deaths (drunken tourists in water is never a good mix). But in recent years, the tubing opened up again, though it’s much more regulated.
In its heyday, tourists would get in their tubes and drift down the river, which had numerous floating bars where they could stock up on more alcohol before continuing down the river.
Now, only three bars line the river and you’re taken there on a tour. It’s still not entirely safe (but that’s true of many attractions in SE Asia).
I don’t like drinking much anymore, but since I was traveling with people who refused to miss it, I reluctantly agreed to go. And I was surprised I actually had fun.
[Disclaimer: even though I don’t act it most of the times, I am still young and in my 20’s, as was almost everyone else there. You will probably not enjoy this if you’re older, don’t plan to drink or can’t stand being around drunk backpackers.]
You get driven to the starting point, where you float lazily down the river on the tubes provided. Reaching the first bar, the workers throw bottles attached to rope. You catch and hold onto the bottle, and they pull you in onto a floating bar. Here you can get alcohol, play beer pong or jump into the river off a diving board or a swing. I had a blast jumping off both.
Getting back into the tube, you make your way to the next bar; this one is on land. In addition to alcohol, you can get food here, too.
Getting into your tube one last time, you reach the last bar where you stay until sunset. This one was the most fun for me. There was a volleyball court, more space for dancing and, best of all, a zipline over the water from which you jump into the river. Not the safest thing in the world for drunk people, but it was definitely the highlight of the day for me.
Overall, it was a great writing break.
You can’t bring your phone with you (unless you have a waterproof bag, but even then I wouldn’t recommend bringing it). And it was so nice to unplug for the day. I had been stressed with deadlines for work and trying to write while in Vang Vieng, so this was exactly what I needed.
Even if you don’t think the tubing is for you, I’d recommend you do the same every once in a while.
Stop thinking about your writing, get away from technology and have some fun letting your inner child out for a full day- plenty of fun places to do that in Laos!
For something with a less crazy environment but still very fun, check out some of the blue lagoons. There’s quite a few in the area, and the one I went to, Blue Lagoon 3, had both a zipline and swing to jump into the water off of.
Once you get your fill from the water, there’s an on-site restaurant where you can order some food. There are plenty of tables to sit at to eat and get some writing done.
And the surrounding area is absolutely gorgeous, with a massive karst rock cliff towering over the lagoon, and many other similar formations in the distance across the rural land stretching in every direction. You can also take a little walk around the area to a cave.
This may be a good alternative to have some fun on a tube if you don’t want to go tubing to the bars on the river. It is not for the faint at heart, and you’ll need your adventurous spirit close at hand. There was a family with two young children who did it, if that makes you feel better about braving it!
Upon paying a small entrance fee (about a dollar), you are provided with a helmet, headlight, vest and tube. You then have to get in your tube and pull yourself into a water cave using a rope. And then there are ropes within the cave that you use to pull yourself through it.
I was there with only one other person. It might be less scary if there’s lots of people in there, but being inside a pitch-black dark (like, actual darkness) cave. The headlights luckily didn’t die on us, but the idea they could was really terrifying.
Make sure you get off your tube when you hit the end of the first rope line. You can enter a tunnel that’s above the water on land. When you’re in there, try turning off your headlights and experience true absolute darkness. I’ve only ever experienced this a few times in my life, and only in caves. It’s pretty cool!
Take a walk around the area when you’re done. There’s a blue lagoon nearby, and the scenery is pretty!
So, I didn’t do this one because it wasn’t in my budget. But a girl I met at my hostel showed me pictures and videos from her experience. And it looked amazing.
The best time to do it is for sunrise, when a misty fog covers the area as the sun makes its first appearance to the day. Like I said, the nature around Vang Vieng is beautiful, so a hot air balloon ride over it is absolutely stunning.
And although I said it wasn’t in my budget at the time, the girl did her research. A hot air balloon ride was on her bucket list, and Vang Vieng was one of the cheapest places in the world she found to do it.
So now this hot air balloon ride has been added to my own bucket list.
This one is probably the most popular Instagram spot in Laos, and not a bad place for some writing either.
Nam Xay viewpoint is another great place to fully appreciate the beauty of Laos from a new perspective: another benefit for your writing.
The best time to go is around sunset. Make sure to get there early to get your picture on the famous motorbike photo spot. And while you wait for the sun to set, sit down on a rock and write. Go prepared though: it’s not an easy hike to get up there!
If you want to do the tubing, Nana Backpacker Hostel is definitely the best bet. The best party hostel in town, it has tubing tours every day, as well as free alcohol in the evenings. It’s not a good place to write though. I tried, and it was awful. There’s a reason I avoid party hostels like the plague.
So after tubing I moved to a more chill hostel, aptly named Chillao Hostel. I will admit it’s not the nicest hostel in the world, but the owner was so friendly, enthusiastically shouting, “Welcome to Chillaooooo!” every time you walk in. There’s a pool to relax in, and an open seating area where it’s possible to get writing done. It does get a bit loud with the music in the evenings, where free rum is served during happy hour, But it’s nothing close as bad as Nana’s. And in the morning, you’re sure to find quiet as you enjoy a freshly cooked breakfast. If you need something really cheap, this will be your best bet.
If you’re not traveling on a tight budget, you’re in luck. Amari Vang Vieng holds gorgeous rooms, and still cheap compared to Western prices for the quality. With a pool with a beautiful view of the mountains in the distance to take a break from writing on the desk in your room, this is a peaceful spot to get writing done on your trip to Laos.
The popularity of this little town among backpackers is not because of the town itself, but rather because it’s the best starting point for a scenic motorbike loop around the area.
Motorbike loops are quite popular in several places through SE Asia, and if you’ve never done one, I found them to be great for writing. You drive around all day visiting beautiful places, stopping in a remote little village after sunset because you can’t drive in the dark. Well, you can, but you won’t want; the whole point of the loop is to see the scenery.
Because you’re in the middle of nowhere, after dinner you sometimes have nothing else to do than write. Procrastination is perhaps the worst thief of writing time, but with nothing to procrastinate on, you’ll be forced to write.
I guess that’s not entirely true. Socializing with other travelers doing the loop is another option to spend your nights, so you can always do that and maybe gain a story idea from the conversations you have. But plan to spend at least one of the nights writing.
I did the loop in three days, but I was going quite fast and didn’t stop everywhere. It’s up to you how long you want to stay.
The accommodations are your best bet. And you’ll be craving to write by the time you reach your accommodation for the night, not to mention the fact that there’s not much to do literally in the middle of nowhere.
In Thakhek before the loop, I stayed at Bed & Bike Hostel. I rented my bike through them too, and although it’s a small hostel, there are tons of cozy writing spots, both indoors and out.
The first night of the loop I stayed at Phosy Thalang Guesthouse, which turned out to have my favorite morning writing session in Laos. That’s because the little bungalow had a porch in front overlooking a lake.
The second night of the loop I stayed at Konglor EcoLodge, which had the cheapest prices I could find with rooms still available. It also boasted a beautiful morning view, with a misty sunrise over limestone cliffs and shining through greenery.
You can also stop to write at a restaurant or café when passing through a town or village and feeling the urge to write. Or the urge to eat.
This is a place you’ll pass on the first day, and I spent way too much time here. True, that was mostly because I was icing my kneecap, which I bruised while climbing down into a cave. But it also had an incredibly chill and welcoming vibe, with lots of friendly, interesting people.
The food was amazing here too (not too easy to find in Laos in the middle of nowhere), so sit down on a cushion, order some food and start writing.
If you like it so much you want to stay long term, you’re in luck. You can rent a bungalow or a spot in the campground and spend as long as you’d like! Try some rock climbing (I didn’t because of the aforementioned bruised kneecap) and explore the mostly secluded area.
This is one of the many spots in Laos I wouldn’t mind returning to for a writing retreat.
The whole loop should serve as writing inspiration. Here were my favorite stops of the loop, and you can spend extra time at all of these places writing.
There are tons of caves you can explore on this loop, but I personally didn’t feel the need to see all of them. The coolest ones I did go to includes Dragon Cave, which is quite big and ends with a hike through a dense forest.
The hands down more impressive one is Konglor Cave, and it’s probably the reason the Thakhek loop exists in the first place. Though it’s located in the middle of nowhere, this humongous cave has become quite popular.
Make sure to read up on the history and legends of this cave on the signs at the entrance; they’re quite interesting!
The boat tour takes you to a village on the other side of this extremely long cave, where you can spend some time. If you’re not interested in renting a bicycle to ride around the area, bring a notebook along to sit at a table, eat some food and write.
This middle-of-nowhere village, and more particularly the smaller villages we passed to get there, was actually one of the highlights of my entire trip. It was certainly my favorite part of the loop.
I wasn’t expecting much, and maybe it was because we drove through the area during the golden hour of sunset when everything looks more beautiful, but I felt in love with the landscape.
We rode on motorbike across land that felt a bit like a dusty valley, flanked by mountains on both sides in the distance. The villages made me feel like I was instead riding on horseback through villages of medieval Europe, a time I desperately wanted to live in when I was little.
I have always admired beauty in simplicity, and on that little stretch of land within the big, busy world, I found incredible beauty.
The road ends at the entrance of Konglor Cave, so I’d recommend staying in Konglor Village for the night and getting a boat trip through the cave.
As the name suggest, the water here is very cold. It’s very worth it though after a day of getting hot and dusty on your motorbike.
The water is so beautiful, so even if you don’t want to swim, you can sit down somewhere and write as you marvel at the clear, turquoise water, and the massive limestone karst above you.
Out of all the places in Laos, this just might be the best place in the country if you want to get writing done.
Located on the border of Laos and Cambodia, the so-called Four Thousand Islands on the massive Mekong River are kind of in the middle of nowhere and hard to get to. Don’t let this deter you like most it does for most travelers; these are ideal writing retreat conditions.
Like the island of Gili Air in Indonesia, Don Det (the main island in the Four Thousand Islands archipelago) has things to do for inspiring writing breaks, yet not much, and is small, so you can never stray too far away from your writing.
Also, because it’s so hard to get to, you’ll not want to move for at least several days to recover from all the traveling required to get there. The perfect thing to do as you recuperate and prepare to start traveling again? Write.
On Don Det you won’t find many nice hotels or hostels. Instead, there’s tons of little wooden bungalows you can rent, some as cheap as just a few dollars a night. These are the best places to write in privacy.
Try to get one by the water; this way you can wake up to the view of the Mekong River, watching fishing boats pass by and for the sun either rise or set upon it.
Also, try to get one with a hammock out front, so you could lay on there to write.
There are so many cozy, wooden cafes, bars and restaurants lining the perimeter of the island by the water’s edge. One side of the island is great for waking up early and catching the sunrise, while the other is perfect for watching the most gorgeous sunsets.
Choose each side accordingly to what time you’re writing, whether it be first thing in the morning, as the day ends while the night swallows up the island in darkness. Try writing at both times!
I won’t name any specific ones because I spent time at so many, and all were equally nice and peaceful. Find one with an empty table that looks most cozy, and write!
These powerful waterfalls might be one of the most exciting parts of the mighty Mekong River. Beyond the thousands of islands scattered through this part of the river, there’s a few sets of waterfalls that are quite the sight to behold.
It’s a great place for a writing break, and there’s a restaurant and seating throughout the area where you can write too if you bring along a notebook.
If you really need an adrenaline kick to get a break from your writing, you zip line over the river and waterfalls.
Or if you want a more peaceful break, there’s a nearby beach where you can lay out to tan and watch the river.
There are no cars on Don Det. So a bicycle is the best way around. You can rent on for super cheap, too. Not only can you bike around Don Det but also the neighboring island, Don Khon.
These two islands are actually connected by a bridge, so you can easily go between the two whenever you please. It’s on Don Khon island where you’ll find the river waterfalls, so biking there is your best option.
If you want to stay on Don Det, there’s more to it than the shoreline perimeter. The middle of the island feels like a completely different place. The farmers tending to the rice fields found there make you feel like you’re on rural land in the middle of nowhere. Certainly not at all like you’re in the middle of a small island.
If you want to get off land and explore the supposed four thousand islands scattered around this part of the Mekong River, kayaking is your best bet. You rent a kayak, or you can go on a tour taking you around the area.
You’ll see the waterfalls on this tour and, if you’re lucky, get a chance to spot the river dolphins. Most tours also take you to see the river waterfalls from the water’s perspective.
I won’t recommend you to book ahead of time (unless you’re going in peak season). When I went there (November), it was a much better idea to walk around and ask for prices (you’ll probably get a lower price if you go in off season) and to see the bungalows in person. Also, many places don’t have listings online.
Just be prepared for rather rustic conditions in most of them. By the pier you’ll find some nicer places with A/C, but except the most basic conditions further away.
I was okay with that, which was why I didn’t mind Vixaby. It had a bed, mosquito net, a fan, electricity, a hammock out front on the porch and a bathroom with running (usually cold) water. All the necessities for an undistracted writing retreat.
One quick note about the water though: I always brushed my teeth with tap water. But Don Det was the only place I got sick from it in all my travels through SE Asia. The water is pumped straight from the Mekong River, so be careful with it like I wasn’t. Use bottled water to brush your teeth here.
As a writer, it’s crucial to read other’s writing to improve your own. And what better way to learn more about Laos’s culture and history than by reading a book set there?
Who knows, maybe one of these will even inspire you to write your own book set in Laos. At the very least, these books will definitely convince you to visit the country if I haven’t already.
It’s great to read writing from natives of the country you’re visiting. Outhine Bounyavong’s short stories offer just that.
This collection of 14 short stories is actually the first collection of Lao short stories to be published in English. So this is a great opportunity to read something written originally in Lao.
Not many books are set in Laos (maybe you can change that?). But this book is among the most popular. It’s the first book in a murder mystery series.
So if that’s your preferred genre, make sure to pick up a copy of this book- and the others in the series- to get yourself excited to visit Laos!
I didn’t get a chance to mention it earlier in this guide, Laos is a weird place. I loved it, but there were some things that I wish I could have had explained to me.
This book, written by a Westerner who lived in SE Asia for more than 30 years, explains it all!
There are so many inspiring places to go on a writing retreat in Laos.
This guide certainly didn’t cover all of them. So let us know in the comments if you have a favorite spot in Laos for writing that didn’t make this list!
Interested in exploring other places around the world to travel to and write? Check out my other Writer’s Travel Guides.
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I only visited Luang Prabang...and now after reading your post, I seriously need to go back again! I agree about mass tourism slowly creeping over Laos, in fact, I feel that they are already in Luang Prabang. Great post!
That's very true- tourism was prevalent almost everywhere, but not as much as in surrounding countries yet!
These are all beautiful and spots!
We went to Laos and loved our time there...especially in Luang Prabang. My husband visited Utopia and loved the vibe and we loved our swim in the waterfalls. We didn't enjoy Vang Vieng as much but loved Vientaine. My experiences give me my writing inspiration
Yeah the actual town of Vang Vieng was very unimpressive, but the surrounding nature was gorgeous! I only spent a night in Vientiane and liked it; I have to go back to explore it again someday. I'm so glad your experience in Laos was also inspiring! :D
Natalie this is such an amazing read! That photo of Kouang Si waterfalls was absolutely breathtaking and I felt as if I were there with your words and images. thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much! And they're even more breathtaking in person ;)
Shocked that poolside at Nana’s during Happy Hour isn’t on here 😛
Haha that was hands down the worst place I tried to work from my entire trip!!